Arthur’s wife Guinevere and his nephew Mordred, her lover, are probably lifted from Welsh oral tradition, too.Surely all that Merlin stuff’s got to be codswallop?Quite possibly, but even though Arthur was a Christian, ancient Celtic rituals undoubtedly held sway in post-Roman Britain, and the presence of a druid in the royal court would not have been unusual. In any case, the legacy of the white bearded one is certainly apparent in the British landscape, whether it’s Merlin’s Tree, Grove or Hill in Carmarthen; Merlin’s Mount in Marlborough, Wiltshire; or Merlin’s Grave, which, curiously, is in two places – Drumelzier in the Scottish borders and, again, in Marlborough.And Sir Lancelot?Now that really is pure fantasy on the part of the later medieval writers.Where do I go next?If you still haven’t given up on Camelot, take a drive to Cadbury Castle on the Somerset-Dorset border. Archaeologists have found pottery here similar to that at Tintagel, and there is also evidence of building works from the relevant period.Didn’t I hear there was a Glastonbury connection?Besides music festivals and mud, Arthur has to be the Somerset town’s biggest claim to fame. Around 1190, local monks, who were (rather suspiciously) desperate for cash to rebuild their burnt-out abbey, claimed to have unearthed the bodies of Arthur and Guinevere after a tip-off from a Welsh bard. According to the monks, there was a lead cross in the grave, inscribed “Here lies buried the renowned King Arthur in the Isle of Avalon”.Archaeologists who excavated the site of the discovery in the 1960s did indeed find that an exhumation had taken place there at around the time claimed.The local tourist office would also have you believe that Glastonbury is the real island of Avalon, where, according to Monmouth, the fatally wounded Arthur was brought and nursed for eternity upon a golden bed by the enchantress Morgan le Fay. Glastonbury Tor is posited as the secret gateway into the netherworld our hero now inhabits.This Arthur stuff all seems a little drab without those dashing knights and lovelorn damselsIf you’re looking for magic, a copy of Sir Thomas Malory’s Morte d’Arthur or Tennyson’s Idylls of the King will make a jolly read on your travels, while Geoffrey Ashe’s Traveller’s Guide to Arthurian Britain (Gothic Image, £12.95) will bring you back down to earth and archaeology..
Where is it?In Beccles, a few miles inland from the Norfolk resort of Great Yarmouth.
What’s it like?Large grade II-listed Queen Anne red-brick country house set in impressive grounds. The interior is tastefully decked out with a nod to period authenticity, but with the emphasis on comfort. Chandeliers and antique knick-knacks add a note of grandeur, though not to the extent that you are afraid to touch anything.What’s its USP?The Elms has two-and-a-half acres of outstanding gardens. The rose walk and topiary are impressive, but it is the lake and the moat that really make the place. These are inhabited by carp, tench and roach (fishing by arrangement), as well as waterfowl and turquoise dragonflies.Ambience?The Elms has been the Freeland family home for more than 150 years, and still very much is, as evidenced by the family portraits and photographs dotted around. This is endearing rather than intimidating, because you are made to feel so welcome. The large sitting room and spacious garden mean that you never run out of space to relax in.Service?At least one of the family is on hand at all times to set you up with an ice-cold beer on the terrace or give you a quick tour of the grounds.Rooms?Large and light with views over the countryside.
Our double had a private, rather than an en-suite, bathroom, although this was not way up a corridor. The interesting throne room looks more Swedish sauna than English country house. The one other bedroom is a twin with en-suite facilities.Food?Excellent breakfasts are included (at £35 per person per night, this makes a stay here quite a bargain). Evening meals need to be booked in advance (nearby Beccles has a selection of passable restaurants, too).Clientele?Urban professionals trying to get away from it all; those who fancy their own country seat; anglers and twitchers.Things to do?You are just a short drive from the kiss-me-quick tackiness of Great Yarmouth, which must have more crazy golf per mile than anywhere else on earth. More refined, duney beaches can also be found nearby, but you could just stay on site and watch the wildlife.Address?The Elms, Toft Monks, Beccles, Suffolk NR34 0EJ (01502 677380; ).. Arnold Bennett was born in Hanley, Staffordshire, in 1867.
